George Maillard Kesslere (1894-1979)

 

George Maillard Kesslere- Maria Gambarelli et sa troupe, 1925

George Maillard Kesslere était un photographe et peintre américain. Diplômé de l’Université de Syracuse, Kesslere était l’un des derniers élèves du peintre impressionniste américain, William Merritt Chase. Après l’optention de son diplome, il a créé un studio ( surtout de portrait) à Syracuse,Etat de New York, où il a pratiqué la photographie et la peinture. Il a également collaboré à plusieurs projets muraux.

Bien que son travail de photographe ait gagné une reconnaissance immédiate pour son talent artistique, Kesslere ne put jamais gagner sa vie à ses debuts,car le prix des photogravure étant trop élevées. Donc, en 1921, The Debutante (La débutante), un périodique de New York peu cher, le convie à devenir éditeur d’art, Kesslere saute sur l’occasion, le déplacement à New York en Août 1921. Pour une brève période, il a maintenu les deux lieux de travail, mais son succès en tant que photographe à New York fit obturateur studio Syracuse en 1922.

La Débutante disparue, Il plublie un ensemble de portraits de Dorothy Dickson dans Vanity Fair qui cimente sa reputation comme un artiste photographe talentueux , ce qui lui a valu une clientèle de ville.Esthète, snob, bisexuels libertin, et le parti-donateur, il est devenu une figure importante dans la consolidation des liens culturels entre la communauté des arts et de la haute société homosexuels dans la période entre les deux guerres.

George Maillard Kesslere-Dorothy Dickson , November 1920

Remarquant la vogue dans les magazines culturels pour les photos floues de danseuses nues, Kesslere en 1923 a commencé à développer une série de peintures et pastels de filles nues drapées diaphonously fonctionnant à l’air libre. Ce genre arty de la peinture de pin-up a attiré l’attention de Broadway chair marchand, Earl Carroll qui a installé Kesslere comme son photographe officiel après la mort de John De Mirjian (voir article sur Lui ICI) en 1928. Les programmes pour « Vanités » série Carroll sélectionnée peintures et photos par Kesslere, et une appréciation effusive de son art par certains luminaire culturelle de la journée.

George Maillard Kesslere- Two nude with aveil in the wind,photo-painting 1924-25

George Maillard Kessler- Untitled, 1930 credited by in the date by 1000 nude, ed Taschen, 2005, but it seems to be from the same serie of the wind in 1924

George Maillard Kesslere-Early Morning 1924-30s

Dans le monde de la photographie théâtrale, la renommée de Kesslere reposait sur des représentations du corps, autant que ses traitements évocateurs et expérimentaux de la tête. Il était l’un des plus beaux des photographes de format de buste de la fin des années 1920 et 1930. Il excellait dans le traitement pictural de buste.Pour ses portraits, il a reçu la reconnaissance de l’Académie royale britannique de la photographie

Le 26 Mars 1935, Kesslere expose 500 de ses photographies, peintures, dessins, gravures et dans le salon de Ziegfeld Theater Patricia Loew. Le 1er Juillet 1947, une exposition itinérante du travail de Kesslere, «Stars d’hier et d’aujourd’hui, »fait le tour des Etats-Unis .

En 1952, Kesslere fait don de 6000 photographies et 500 tableaux à la Collection Théâtre de la New York Public Library. Malheureusement, l’atelier de Kesslere, a pris feu peu de temps avant le transfert des images, et la plupart des articles qui ont été enregistrés et transférés à la collecte NYPL souffrent de dégâts d’eau et une manipulation brutale. Texte de David S. Shields traduit par mes soins.

George Maillard. Kesslere- The Graces, posed by The Muller Dancers,pubished in Theatre Magazine, september 1923

George Maillard Kesslere Norma Talmadge ,1920-1925

George Maillard Kesslere-Norma Talmadge, 1924-27

George Maillard Kesslere Nude, Womanhood, 1925

George Maillard Kesslere Sultry Shirley 1922-25

George Maillard Kessler- Sultry Shirley in parshall (Série Earl Carrols Vanities), {Crop} 1931[source ebay]

Kesslere consacré son art photographique du portrait de théâtre et de la mode. Peintre de formation, il a poursuivi une carrière parallèle comme un bel artiste, excellant dans des tons pastels. De la première, il illustré l’approche-Hollywood lutte contre picturale, des photographes de Kansas City et les racloirs de New York négatifs. Il a rénové et modernisé le style de la photographie vignette fin du 19ème siècle . Le succès de ces portraits de médias mixtes conduit d’autres, comme Hal Phyfe , John De Mirjian , et même Irving Chidnoff , a expérimenter avec le style, conduisant à un moment en 1926-27 quand un style distinct de New York de l’art du portrait a prévalu. Même dans les années 1930 plus tard, quand un style rectiligne de représentation est devenu la norme, les images de Kesslere ont été si lourdement retouchées qu’ils semblaient graphique plutôt que photographique.

George Maillard Kesslere – Maria Gambarelli ( greatest dancer of the Metropolitan Opera ballet school, 1920s

George Maillard Kesslere- Portrait of Maria Gambarelli ( greatest dancer of the Metropolitan Opera ballet school, 1920s

George Maillard Kesslere- Jacqueline Logan

George Maillard Kesslere-Betty Blythe 1924

G MAILLIARD KESSLERE VIVIAN KEEFER SEMI NUDE 1920’S

George Maillard Kesslere – Maria Gambarelli ( greatest dancer of the Metropolitan Opera ballet school, 1922

George Maillard Kesslere – Maria Gambarelli ( greatest dancer of the Metropolitan Opera ballet school, 1922 ( ebay)

George Maillard Kesslere – Maria Gambarelli ( greatest dancer of the Metropolitan Opera ballet school, 1922

George Maillard Kesslere – Maria Gambarelli ( greatest dancer of the Metropolitan Opera ballet school, 1922

George Maillard Kesslere – Maria Gambarelli ( greatest dancer of the Metropolitan Opera ballet school, 1922

George Maillard Kesslere – Maria Gambarelli ( greatest dancer of the Metropolitan Opera ballet school, 1922

George Maillard Kesslere -Annette Margules, 1924

George Maillard Kesslere- Alice Burragen 1922-24

George Maillard Kesslere- Belle Bennett ( actress), 1920s

George Maillard Kesslere -Ethelind Terry, 1920s

George Maillard Kesslere-Betty Blythe 1924

George Maillard Kesslere- unknown model, 1924

George Maillard Kesslere-Dorothy Dickson , November 1920

George Maillard Kesslere -Marion Benda, 1920s

George Maillard Kesslere- Evangeline Raleigh ( miss Brodway, Sunny days), 1928

George Maillard Kesslere -Gloria Swanson, 1927

George Maillard Kesslere- silent Western star and speakeasy ownerunknown model, 1924, 1924-26

George Maillard Kesslere- unknown model, 1924

George Maillard Kesslere -The showgirl, dancer and actress Lota Cheek, 1924

George Maillard Kesslere -the showgirl dancer and actress Lota Cheek, 1924 police gazette COVER_

George Maillard Kessler- Womanhood, 1925

George Maillard Kesslere – The south wind, 1924

George Maillard Kesslere -Peggy Cornell, 1928

George Maillard Kesslere -Fowler and Tamara Dancers – Pierrot 1925 Magazine

George Maillard Kesslere -Gloria Swanson, For the magazine the Tatler 1927

George Maillard Kesslere -Gloria Swanson, 1927

George Maillard Kesslere -Gloria Swanson, 1927

George Maillard Kessler- Tallulah Bankhead, 1935

George Maillard Kesslere- Earl Carroll Vanities, 1921

George Maillard Kesslere- Earl Carroll Vanities, 1922

George Maillard Kesslere- Earl Carroll Vanities,

George Maillard Kesslere -Ruth Page and Adolph Bolm in Visions Fugitives, c1922_e

George Maillard Kesslère -Ruth Page in the Music Box Revue, 1922 and 1924 npgl

George Maillard Kesslère -Ruth Page in the Music Box Revue, 1922 and 1924 npgl

George Maillard Kesslère -Ruth Page in the Music Box Revue, 1922 and 1924

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1929 Oakland,California

Albert Arthur Allen – Model seated on a table from The Boudoir Series, Oakland, California, 1924

Albert Arthur Allen – Nude Model, 1929,from The Boudoir series, , Oakland, California

Albert Arthur Allen – Nude with Cigarette, 1924-29 from The Boudoir series, , Oakland, California

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1924 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen – Nude with pearls 1924, from The Boudoir series, , Oakland, California

Albert Arthur Allen- Study of nude, 1920s Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1929 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1924 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1925 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1925 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1925 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1924 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1924 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1924 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1929 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1929 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1924 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1924 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1924 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1929 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1920s Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1920s Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1924 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1924 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- Nude in her bathroom, 1924 from The Boudoir series, , Oakland, California

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1925 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1924 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1924 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1924 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1924-29 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1929 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1928 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1929 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1929 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1924 Oakland, California.

Albert Arthur Allen 1929 , from The Boudoir series, , Oakland, California

Albert Arthur Allen- from the The Boudoir Series, 1924 Oakland, California.

Comte Etienne de Beaumont , connu pour ses grand bals masqués dans les années 20-25

The Count Etienne de Beaumont, a wealthy descendant of one of the great families of France, was both a ballet set designer, costumes and jewelery, a painter, an accomplished socialite, known for its masked balls and a generous patron, especially for the Ballets Russes of Serge Diaghilev, passionate contemporary arts.

On May 17, 1924, he inaugurated the ‘Soirees de Paris’ Théâtre de la Cigale in Montmartre. They only last a year, combining music hall performances, ballet, poetry and theater, with the participation of artists as diverse as Jean Cocteau, Pablo Picasso, Georges Braque, Erik Satie and Darius Milhaud. With his wife Edith, Étienne de Beaumont Comandita films and avant-garde ballets, and after the war, founded the « Franco-American Association ‘who financed many important exhibitions. Paul Morand, Maurice Sachs, Jean Cocteau, Marc Allégret Bernard Faÿ, Leonide Massine, Lucien Daudet, René Crevel described the extraordinary personality of the Comte de Beaumont; it is also the model of the main character of the second novel by Raymond Radiguet, The Ball of Count Orgel. imec

anomyme, Suit designed by the famous designer Conte Etiene Beaumont, known for its grand masked balls in the years 20-25

Anomyme, Suit designed by the famous designer Comte Etienne de Beaumont, known for its grand masked balls in the years 20-25

anomyme, Costume designed and worn by the famous designer Conte Etiene Beaumont, known for its grand masked balls in the years 20-25

anomyme, Costume designed and worn by the famous designer Conte Etiene Beaumont, known for its grand masked balls in the years 20-25

Etienne de Beaumont and his wife dressed in costumes created by himself (Baroque Dance), 1920s

Etienne de Beaumont and his wife dressed in costumes created by himself (Baroque Dance), 1920s

anomyme, Costume designed and worn by the famous designer Conte Etiene Beaumont, known for its grand masked balls in the years 20-25

anomyme, Costume designed and worn by the famous designer Conte Etiene Beaumont, known for its grand masked balls in the years 20-25

Some example could wear costumes that participants Beaumont balls created by the greatest designers of the time.

Man Ray- Mrs. Errazuriz, Picasso and Olga (his wife) to the ball of Beaumont Count 1924

Man Ray- Mrs. Errazuriz, Picasso and Olga (his wife) to the ball of Beaumont Count 1924

Man Ray- Picasso his wife Olgaet two unidentified persons at a ball of Count Etienne de Beaumont, 1924

Man Ray, Ricardo Viñes, Olga Picasso, Picasso and painter Manolo Ortiz Angeles to a ball of Count Etienne de Beaumont, 1924

Man Ray - Gerald Murphy and his wife, Sara, dressed for a ball of Count Etienne de Beaumont, Montparnasse in 1922

Man Ray – Gerald Murphy and his wife, Sara, dressed for a ball of Count Etienne de Beaumont, Montparnasse in 1924

Man Ray - Gerald Murphy A ball of Count Etienne de Beaumont, Montparnasse in 1922

Man Ray – Gerald Murphy A ball of Count Etienne de Beaumont, Montparnasse in 1924


Man Ray – unidentified person at the ball of Beaumont, 1924

Man Ray unidentified person at the ball of Beaumont, 1924

 Tzara and Man Ray Nancy Cunard at the ball of Beaumont Count 1924

Tzara and Man Ray Nancy Cunard at the ball of Beaumont Count 1924

Man Ray – Unidentified Persons to the ball of Beaumont in 1924

-The Man Ray Viscountess of Noailles the Ball Count E. de Beaumont, 1928

Hans Bellmer

Hans Bellmer – Paul ALTHAUS. Cover for Jack der Aufschlitzer. Rund zwei Dutzend Lieder mit Zeichnungen von Rudolf Schlichter,  Berlin Ed° Elena Gottschalk Verlag, 1924. (photomontage )

via Christies

Germaine Krull, From Séries les Amies , 1924

Germaine Krull – Les Amies, 1924


Germaine Krull – Les Amies, 1924

Germaine Krull – Les Amies, 1924

 

Germaine Krull -Les Amies1924,Tirage argentique

Germaine Krull – Les Amies, 1924

Germaine Krull – Les Amies, 1924

 

Copyright Estate Germaine Krull, Fotografische Sammlung, Museum Folkwang, Essen

In the remaining eight photographs in Les Amies, the models are naked except for their dark stockings and sometimes their shoes. The overt sexuality of the models is emphasized by the stockings, unlike the bare legs of the models in Akte. The depiction of stockings had long been considered a sign distancing a figure from the conventions of the ideal, asexual nude based on classical models. The choice of the dark stockings also emphasizes the contemporaneity of the models. In contrast, photographs of nude

 

figures specifically described as models for artists, and therefore intended as ideal citations of classical models, are absent any clothing that would imply a contemporary existence.

In contrast to the conversational poses of the models in Akte, most of the poses for Les Amies are tangles of intricately interlocking limbs in which sexual acts are posed but not entirely convincing. Some positions appear more sculptural than sexual . One image suggests cunnilingus, yet the head is placed slightly too far away.

Another image enacts a “69” pose of double cunnilingus, yet again the heads are ever so slightly out of position and the composition becomes a protosurrealist study of a nude torso from behind, with dark stockings at right and left . One more image presents a clear view of one woman’s crotch, as one leg flails above her. The pose would seem to prevent sexual satisfaction, although it provides the viewer with a brief glimpse of vaginal lips.

Throughout Les Amies, Krull repeatedly obscures the models’ anatomy, oscillating between inviting the spectator’s desiring gaze and frustrating the clarity such a gaze requires. As Abigail Solomon-Godeau observed

 about the « lesbian » scenes staged for nineteenth-century daguerreotypes, « [W]omen together . . . are typically posed in ways that provide the viewer with maximum visual access to their bodies. » These conventions continue into the twentieth century, yet Krull’s models fold their arms across their faces, tilt their heads so their pageboy hairstyles hide their eyes and press their bodies so close together that their breasts are partly hidden. Even more surprising, in not a single image does a model directly gaze out at the camera. The standard acknowledgment of the viewer of erotic material, the address to the third party outside the image, never takes place. These models remain hermetically sealed in the studio, failing to address the frustrated desiring gaze, to symbolically invite the third party to join the sexual adventures taking place. Despite the direct view of the crotch in one image and the depictions of cunnilingus, the eroticism is contained between the two women, with no imaginary space for a third, presumably male, viewer to enter.

Psychoanalytic theories of the gaze have defined spectator positions in gendered terms, with the male position or gaze described as active and Page  142aligned with the desire to possess the female object, in contrast to the female, passive position that would allow only the desire to become the object. As research into queer viewing positions has argued, these viewing positions are not exclusively aligned with the sex of the viewer: a man can take on the desire to become the object when viewing a homoerotic scene.

The compositional structure of Krull’s Les Amies invites a desiring gaze that is narcissistic, a gaze that desires to be one of the women while rejecting the possibility of possessing them both. This argument extends Sichel’s observation that Krull dismissed “the male gaze of Weimar culture in favor of a female gaze” and her emphasis on the gazes within the images as the female models view each other. In Les Amies, there is no space for a third party: the only possibility is to become one of the women. Moreover the specific acts depicted suggest a woman’s knowledge of how women have sex with women rather than a man’s imagined projection. The repeated emphasis on how the hands are placed in each image and sexual position stresses the crucial importance of the hands as instruments in female-female sex. In contrast, the absence of a dildo suggests that there is no need for a penis or indeed for the symbolic phallus. In comparison, Christian Schad’s satirical drawing of two woman engaged in oral sex, Sisters, circa 1929, includes an enormous dildo, which has been discarded in the corner, simultaneously emphasizing the desire for the phallus while comically bemoaning its dismissal.

By photographing erotic scenes, Krull not only constructed the desiring gaze but also placed herself in the position of that gaze, taking on privileges previously permitted only to male photographers. The trope of the male artist desiring his female model, of the creative act as intimately connected to the sexual act, goes back as far as the classical tale of Pygmalion and echoes throughout Western art since the Renaissance. Similarly, for photographers, Solomon-Godeau notes that “photographic activity was itself intuitively perceived as sexually charged.” Although there is evidence of women’s involvement in manufacturing and distributing pornographic photographs before and during the First World War, these women remained on the margins of commercial photography. For an ambitious, professionally trained woman photographer such as Krull to create erotic and even pornographic material required her to transgress the definitions of middle-class respectability.

Krull’s motivation for creating Akte and Les Amies remains unclear: her later account of wanting to make “galant” photographs remains the most explanation. Yet that decision was made within the context of her unorthodox—and temporarily bisexual—personal life and the artistic possibilities in Berlin in the 1920s.

In her later biography, Krull mentioned various male lovers across the years, as well as one female lover, Elsa, with whom she had an affair during her time in Berlin and into 1925 after she left Berlin for Amsterdam and then Paris: “At that time, I also had a friend, Elsa, who came to help me when I had too much to do. Elsa was the only woman in my life for whom I had feelings that were more than friendly; she was married and had a lover, and for that reason didn’t have much time for me.During an account of a visit to Paris with Elsa, most likely in 1925, Krull elaborated further.

I never loved a woman, but with Elsa the joy of feeling together was great; she too never left my side. We would have laughed if someone had described us as lesbians; Elsa was so profoundly mine that the physical issue did not count, it had very little importance. She had never experienced an orgasm, not with her husband nor with her lover, and thus it had to be me to give her pleasure. Everything was very simple and we were happy to share a secret

Krull’s dismissal of the term lesbian reflects the fluidity of female sexual identity in the 1920s, especially for adventurous New Women. According to an interview conducted by Ilse Kokula, one woman reported that it was “chic” to pretend to be lesbian in the 1920s. There is no evidence that Krull had more than one same-sex affair.At the same time as her affair with Elsa, she was having an affair with Joris Ivens, whom she later married. Similarly, as Krull relates, Elsa also had not only a husband but also a male lover in addition to her relationship with Krull.

 

Germaine Krull – Les Amies, 1924

 

Germaine Krull – Les Amies, 1924

Germaine Krull – Les Amies, 1924

Germaine Krull – Les Amies, 1924

Germaine Krull – Les Amies, 1924

Germaine Krull – Les Amies, 1924

Germaine Krull. Les Amies. 1924.

Germaine Krull – Les Amies, 1924

Germaine Krull – Les Amies, 1924

Germaine Krull – Les Amies, 1924

Germaine Krull – Les Amies, 1924

Arthur F. Kales- Portraits

Arthur F. Kales. Anna May Wong in Thief of Bagdad 1924

Arthur F. Kales. Anna May Wong in Thief of Bagdad 1924 another print here

 

Arthur F. Kales- portrait of Peggy Fish, 1929

 

Arthur F. Kales - The Kiss, (from Photograms of the Year ),1928

Arthur F. Kales – The Kiss, (from Photograms of the Year ),1928